My wife and I purchased our home last year and as part of the inspection, I was told the hot water heater would have to be replaced soon. In Novemeber of 2012 we came across an after thanksgiving special. Jacuzzi tankless heater for a little over 600 bucks. I couldnt resist and bought it. I took on several projects and left this one in the back burner which shouldn’t have done. Sure enough, the freaking thing busted and leaked water all over our master closet. Luckily I was able to shut the valves of both water and gas. Needless to say,I was kind of forced into this upgrade being that we didnt have hot water. ( which really sucks by the way).
Ill try and keep this short. But if you’ve researched a tankless installation, you already know it can get a little confusing depending on your model. I wont go into specifics or space or cost savings, im sure you’ve already done that if you are reading this now.
Here are some tools that you’ll need:
an Assistant | Miter or circular saw | Jigsaw | Straight Edge | pencil | plumbers wrench | teflon tape | Gas teflon tape (yellow)| Nails or screws | Sheet of plywood ( this is 1/2″) | 2×4 material | Shark bite/Gator bits and removal tool | gas line (flex) | Roofing Caulk |
NOTE: Most tankless systems don’t include all the parts to make it function as a whole, so here is a list to keep an eye out for.
Tankless unit | Brass fittings ( hot, cold and gas with pressure relief) mine were 3/4″ | Roof pitched flashing | Ventilation kit |
After draining the old heater, My brother in law helped me drag that sucker down the attic steps. I used 2×4 material and started to frame out where the old heater stood. Reason for that is I wanted to use the existing vent hole in the roof ( You will have to make it a tad larger to fit the new ventilation) Shut off water at the valve first, if you plan on re routing your plumbing, shut the water off at the meter.
Removed the old drain pan
I cut a 30 degree angle on the top of the 2x4s to have a better fit on the inner roof. I used deck screws to hold the frame together.
screwed in a 1/2″ piece of plywood to mount the tankless on.
Attached the brass fittings.
I purchased 2 pieces of black steel. One for the sediment trap and the other is the t reducer fitting. The gas pipe installation in my home is 1/2″ so I needed a 3/4″ adapter. I found one at Home Depot and ended up using the old fitting on my previous hot water heater. You cant see it in this pic but the gas line has a shut off valve. This is very important, you NEED TO HAVE A SHUTOFF.
NOTE: I sent an email to my gas provider about getting a new line installed at 3/4″ but never heard back so until then Im using a 1/2″ adapter. Works just fine
I had to special order these two items from Lowes: The outdoor vent and flashing. Ive also ordered the condensation trap but that has not come in yet.
I removed the old vent and had to cut the hole a little larger with a jigsaw. Here it is in place and caulked.
Use shark bite or gator bite bits. Definitely a time saver. You dont have to sweat any pipe. I cut the copper pipes back and measured to the brass fittings. These bits just snap right in with a twist like motion. Cold water connects to blue, hot water going out connects to red, and the drain goes last on the pressure relief fitting.
The tankless is gas but it needs power for the computer on the thermostat.
Connected the condensation trap. I had to special order this as well from the lowes website. Took about 4 days to get to the store.
Pretty simple install. Hose clamp on both ends and two screws into the plywood.
I used my jigsaw to cut the existing hole on the roof a tad bit bigger to fit the ventilation. I used a few spare pieces of shingles I had from my shed roof and used roofing caulk to seal. So far so good. One thing to take in mind is every system is different and I would definitely recommend doing plenty of research on your unit. We not have UNLIMITED hot water! 🙂